Museum Showcase Mistakes: Lessons from 500+ Projects

Created on 08.28

As a museum pro, you know how exciting it is to plan a new exhibit. You put in the research, make the plans, and then those brand-new display cases finally arrive for your precious pieces. But what if that excitement turns into worry when the case that seemed perfect on paper starts causing problems for the collection it’s meant to protect? Based on our experience with over 500 museum display case projects, we want to share some important insights to help you avoid these issues.

This isn't just another product guide. It's a practical guide to help you steer clear of the most common and costly mistakes when buying display cases. We'll go over the subtle but crucial details of protecting artifacts that set apart a simple glass box from a true conservation-grade enclosure. Understanding these pitfalls will help you make sure your investment keeps your collection safe for many years.

Risks You Can't See: Why Small Things Matter a Lot

A museum display case is more than just a piece of box; it's a carefully controlled little world. If decisions are made too fast or important technical details are missed, the results can be bad. We've seen light damage that can't be fixed, humidity changes that cause warping or mold, and even physical damage to artifacts from poorly designed cases. These problems can waste money, strain resources, and hurt the visitor experience.

The good news is that these problems can almost always be avoided. It starts with looking beyond the spec sheet and asking the right questions. Let's look at the three most common mistakes we've seen and how you can prevent them.

Mistake 1: Thinking "Close Enough" Is Good Enough for Sizing

One of the most frequent problems we see is ordering a display case with dimensions that are technically right for the artifact but not practical to use. This "close enough" thinking doesn't consider everything else that needs to fit inside the case.

The Problem: Forgetting What Else Goes Inside

Curators often give the exact height, width, and depth of an artifact. But, they might forget to leave room for other important things needed for conservation and display, like:

Environmental Control: Space for things like silica gel, humidity sensors, and good airflow.
Object Mounts: The base and supports that hold the artifact in place.
Lighting: Internal spotlights or fiber optics that take up space.
Handling Room: Enough space for a curator or technician to safely place or remove the artifact without risking damage.

Example: We worked with a client who ordered a bulk order of beautiful, freestanding display cases to showcase a collection of ancient, fragile blue-and-white porcelain vases. The cabinets had just enough space inside to accommodate the vases, but no room for humidity control. The team was forced to place the humidity control too close to the vases, which not only looked unprofessional but also risked damaging them during maintenance.

The Fix: Plan Your Dimensions Carefully

To keep this from happening, think about the inside space as a whole.

The 360-Degree Rule: Plan for at least 4-6 inches of space around every side of the artifact. This makes sure there's enough airflow and room for handling.
Map Out What Goes Inside: Before you order, make a simple drawing of everything that needs to go inside the display case, including the artifact, its mount, labels, and any environmental control units. This makes it easy to see if there might be space problems.
Think About Access: Consider how your team will use the display case. For a tall, narrow case, a swing door might work better than a pull-out shelf. For a desktop display cabinet, a lift-off acrylic cover might be the best way to get to the artifact. This is why it's helpful to have display cabinets customized just for your needs, designed around how you work.

A blue-and-white porcelain vase with intricate patterns, displayed in a transparent glass showcase with a black frame and stand, highlighting its elegance.

Mistake 2: Ignoring the Science Behind Museum Lighting

Lighting is often seen as just a way to make things look good, but in a museum, it's also a tool for conservation. If you only focus on how bright the lights are and ignore other important things, you could cause damage that can't be fixed.

The Problem: The Wrong Light Can Hurt Your Artifacts

Modern LED lights are great, but not all of them are the same. We often see display cases with lights that are not right for the job or could even be harmful. Common mistakes include:

Bad Light Angle: Lights placed directly overhead create harsh shadows and intense spots of energy on the artifact's surface.
Low Color Rendering Index (CRI): A low CRI (below 90) makes the colors of an artifact look wrong, which can disappoint visitors and affect research.
Heat & Radiation: All lights make some heat. If the power sources are inside the sealed display case, that heat gets trapped, raising the temperature and lowering humidity. It's also a big mistake not to make sure the lights produce zero UV and IR radiation.

Example: A museum contacted us after noticing that old documents in their new wall-mounted display cases were starting to fade after only six months. Their supplier had given them bright LED lights with a cool color. But the lights were too close to the documents, and the spec sheets showed that they weren't rated for zero UV output. Sadly, the damage couldn't be undone.

The Fix: Be Specific About Your Lighting

Protect your collection by treating lighting with the care it deserves. A good display case supplier should be able to give you this information.

Angle Matters: Make sure you have adjustable lighting. Fiber optics or LED spotlights that can be moved let you aim the light exactly where you want it, creating an even light and avoiding dangerous hot spots.
Get the Details: Your order should specify a CRI of 95 or higher, a specific color temperature (like 3000K warm white), and certification that the lights produce zero UV/IR radiation. Ask the manufacturer for a detailed data sheet.
Keep Heat Out: A key part of a conservation display is that all parts that produce heat—like power supplies—must be kept outside the sealed area where the artifact is. This keeps the temperature stable.
Test on Site: After the lights are installed, use a light meter to measure the light levels on the surface of your artifacts. For delicate materials like textiles and paper, light levels should often be kept below 50 lux.

Mistake 3: Thinking a "Seal" Means Airtight

The word "sealed" is often used, but it doesn't mean much without a way to measure how well it works. The airtightness of a display case is your main defense against pollutants, dust, and humidity changes.

The Problem: A Leaky Case Doesn't Work

A bad seal ruins the purpose of a good museum display case. Leaks allow air to constantly flow in and out, making it impossible to keep a stable environment inside. This is often caused by:

Cheap Gaskets: Using low-quality rubber or foam gaskets that break down over time.
Poor Design: Doors that don't fit tightly or locking systems that don't apply even pressure across the entire seal.
Designs That Aren't Tested: Many suppliers say their cases are sealed but have never tested them to measure how much air leaks in and out.

Example: We were asked to help a museum that was having trouble with new modular display cases. Even though they were using the right amount of silica gel, they couldn't keep the humidity inside stable. We did a simple test. In a dark room, we shined a flashlight along the door seams from the outside. From the inside, we could easily see light coming through gaps in the gaskets, showing where the problem was.

The Fix: Define and Test Your Seal

You can make sure you get what you paid for by being specific and doing simple checks.

Set a Standard: For any good conservation case, the requirement should be an Air Exchange Rate (AER) of less than 0.1 per day. Put this requirement in your contract.
Check the Gaskets: Ask what the seals are made of. Inert silicone gaskets are the standard. They are stable, last a long time, and provide a better seal.
The Flashlight Test: This is an easy test you can do when the cases are delivered. If you see light, the seal is not good.
Ask for Proof: Remember, a perfect seal doesn't matter if the materials inside (adhesives, paints, fabrics) are giving off harmful chemicals. Always ask for test results for all materials used inside the display case.

Your Checklist

Based on our experience, we advise you to check these things before you order:

Sizing: Have I made sure there's enough room for equipment, mounts, and safe handling, not just the artifact's size?
Lighting: Do I have the full specs (CRI >95, zero UV/IR), and is the heat source kept away from the artifact?
Airtightness: Is the required air exchange rate (AER < 0.1/day) in my contract, and do I have a plan to check it?
Materials: Has the supplier given me documents (like test results) that show the materials inside the case are safe?

Partnering for Protection

Avoiding these mistakes comes down to being careful and working with a professional display cabinet manufacturer. A good display case is a long-term investment in the safety of your collection.

Ready to create the perfect, safe home for your collection? With insights from over 500 projects, our team can help you with every detail. Contact us today to upgrade your showcase project.